キミとエルキ: 日本・京都への旅行
Kimi and Elchi in Kyôto |
京
都
For
more than a thousand years Kyôto was the capital of Japan and the residence of
the Japanese emperors. Kyôto is, therefore, home to numerous temples and
shrines as well as other historically valuable cultural assets. The city was
spared massive destruction during the Second World War and preserved most of
its pre-war cultural heritage. Kyôto, considered the cultural capital of Japan, embodies more than any other city in Japan the good old days, combined with an elegant, vibrant flair.
Some
History
In the early days of
Japanese history, it was common practice to move the entire capital with all
its palaces and residences to another location, either after the death of an
emperor or at the time of political unrest or due to other serious circumstances.
In the eighth century, when Japan had developed into a centralized, emperor-run
state, a more permanent capital was necessary for stability. However, the first
permanent capitals proved by no means permanent. Nara was the capital of Japan
between 710-794 under the name Heijôkyô (平城京). The
capital was briefly moved to nearby Nagaokakyô (長岡京).
According to Shoku Nihongi (続日本紀), a Japanese historical text commissioned by the
emperor and completed in 797, the reason for the move was that the new location
had better waterways. However, there are other explanations, including the
emperor's desire to escape the power of the Buddhist clergy and courtiers.
However, due to the ongoing misfortune, it was decided to look for a new capital.
In 794, Emperor Kanmu (桓武天皇, 737-806)
moved the capital to Heiankyô (平安京), later known as Kyôto. Kyôto was ideal because it
met several (Chinese) requirements for all permanent capitals to be
established, such as mountains in the north, east and west or two rivers in the
east, Kamogawa (鴨川) and Takanogawa (高野川) Rivers. This marked the beginning of the Heian period (平安時代, 794-1185).
Phoenix Hall, Byôdôin, Uji. |
Literature flourished in the
Heian period. The text of the Japanese national anthem "Kimigayo" was
written, as was "The Tale of Genji" (源氏物語, Genji
monogatari), one of the first novels ever, written by a female, Murasaki Shikibu (紫式部, 978-1016?), herself a member of the Fujiwara
clan. Through this narrative, we learn
about the achievements of this social class in poetry, music, calligraphy or
painting, their rites, their social and political obligations and above all
their love relationships. Almost the entire novel revolves around the love
affairs of the prince.
Murasaki Shikibu's rival
contemporary, Sei Shônagon (清少納言, ca. 966-1025?), published "The Pillow Book" (枕草子, Makura no sôshi), with reports on various
topics of everyday life at the imperial court, often including
precise details such as the clothes people wore.
The Heian period also
brought a flowering of poetry with works such as those by Ono no Komachi (小野 小町, ca. 825-ca. 900). Vividly colored yamatoe, (大和絵)
Japanese style paintings, with themes on court life and stories about temples
and shrines, were spread in the middle to late Heian period and continue to set
standards for Japanese art today.
With the flourishing of
culture, decentralization also flourished. The Fujiwara ruled the throne until
the reign of Emperor Go-Sanjô (後三条天皇 1034-1073), the first emperor
not born of a Fujiwara mother since the ninth century. Competition for resources
among the extended families led to the gradual decline of Fujiwara's power and
a struggle for power in the mid-tenth and eleventh centuries. The first military
conflicts took place in the middle of the tenth and eleventh centuries. Members
of the Fujiwara clan, the Taira (平) or Heike (平家) and the Minamoto (源) or Genji (源氏),
families that had all emerged from the imperial family, attacked each other,
claimed control over large parts of the conquered land, established rival
regimes and generally caused hostility.
The five-year Genpei War (源平合戦, Genpei kassen, 1180-85), a national civil war between the
Taira and Minamoto families, led to the end of the Heian period and the
beginning of the Kamakura
period (鎌倉時代,
1185-1333) when the Minamoto won the Battle of Dan'noura (壇ノ浦の戦) in March 1185. The victorious Minamoto no Yoritomo (源 頼朝,
1147-1199) established a military government far east of the capital, near
Tôkyô, which marks the beginning of a feudal period that was to last until
1868, with the emperor and the court aristocracy in western Japan (Kyôto) and
the military government in Eastern Japan). However, the Ken’ninji Zen Buddhist
temple was built in Kyôto during the Kamakura period. Other notable temples
founded during this period are the Honganji and Tôfukuji temples.
With
the help of Ashikaga no Takauchi (足利 尊氏, 1305-58) then emperor Go-Daigo (後醍醐天皇,
1288-1339) was
successful in bringing down the leadership of the Kamakura military government.
However, the emperor was unable to prevent him to establish his military
hegemony and failed to re-establish direct imperial rule. The Kamakura Shôgunate
was defeated around 1333, which led to the Muromachi
Shogunate (室町時代 1336-1573)
or the Ashikaga era. However, in 1336 Takauji drove Go-Daigo out of
the capital and put another member of the imperial family to the throne. This
marks the beginning of warfare and the split between the Northern and the
Southern Courts (1336-92). Emperor Go-Daigo died in 1338 and his former enemy,
Takauchi built Tenyûji Temple in Arashiyama, fearing the vengeful spirit of Go-Daigo.
Like many temples and shrines in Japan, it was thus built to appease the ghost
of a former enemy or a person who died violently.
Kinkakuji, Kyôto |
Famine, economic hardship
and an inheritance dispute led to the 10-year Ōnin Civil War (応仁の乱, 1467-78), a a succession dispute erupted over the shogunate, when then shōgun, Ashikaga Yoshimasa (足利 義政, 1436-1490) was considering retirement. Hosokawa Katsumoto, who created the Rock Garden of Ryôanji supported the shôgun's brother, while his father-in-law Yamana
Sôzen (山名 宗全 1404 -1473) was supporting Yoshimasa's son. This dispute escalated
into a nationwide war with the Ashikaga shôgunate and several Daimyô in many
regions of Japan. The war initiated the Sengoku period (戦国時代, 1467-1600) "the time
of the warring states". Unfortunately, many of Kyôto's historical
treasures were destroyed during the war.
The Azuchi-Momoyama period (安土桃山時代, 1573-1603) was the final
phase of the Sengoku period. These years of political unification led to the
foundation of the Tokugawa Shôgunate by the
three so-called "unifiers of Japan", Oda Nobunaga (織田 信長, 1534 -1582), Toyotomi Hideyoshi (豐臣 秀吉, 1537 - 1598) and Tokugawa Ieyasu (徳川家康, 1543 - 1616). It extends over
the years from 1573 to 1600, when Nobunaga and his successor Hideyoshi put
order to the chaos that had reigned since the collapse of the Ashikaga shôgunate. The name of this period is taken from two
castles: Nobunaga's Azuchi Castle in Azuchi, Shiga, and
Hideyoshi's Momoyama Castle, also
known as Fushimi Castle, in Kyôto.
After the
death of Hideyoshi in 1598, the decisive Battle of Sekigahara (関ヶ原の戦い, Sekigahara
no tatakai)
took place in 1600, a battle between the troops of Ieyasu and his opponents. After his
victory, Ieyasu became Japan's Shôgun and founded the Tokugawa Shôgunate, which lasted until 1868. This period is known as
the Edo period (1603-1868), a very stable political government. However, since
Ieyasu moved the political center to his fortress in Edo, now Tôkyô, many
craftsmen left Kyôto for Edo, where the Daimyô built their luxury villas.
During this time, political power was exercised by the Shôgun in Edo; the
emperor, who was still in Kyôto, was politically insignificant at that time.
The Tokugawa Shôgunate
pursued an isolationist foreign policy called sakoku (鎖国, "closed country") to
prevent foreign invasions and religious missionaries. This policy ended after
1853 when the American ships led by Matthew Perry (1794-1858) forced Japan to
open up to American (and Western) trade. The continuous opening of Japan caused
great controversy among the population. As a result, various military movements
emerged, some of which fought for the opening of Japan and the preservation of
the Tokugawa-Shôgunate associated with it. Other rival clans from Western
Japan, namely those from Satsuma, Tosa, and Chôshû, demanded that power be
returned to the emperor and therefore voted against opening up to Western
foreign countries. In Kyôto, you will find several places that remind us of the
clashes between these two rival forces, such as the site of the Ikdedaya
incident (see Mibudera) or the site of the Ômiya incident.
The power struggle between shôgun and emperor was finally decided in the Boshin War (戊辰戦争, 1868-69). In the Battle of Toba-Fushimi (鳥羽・伏見の戦い , Toba-Fushimi no tatakai) in January 1868 the forces of the shôgunate and the allied forces of Chōshū, Satsuma and Tosa domains collided at Fushimi, Kyôto. The struggle lasted four days and ended with a decisive defeat for the shôgunate. The result was the transformation from a feudal society to modern Japan, beginning with the reign of Emperor Meiji (明治天皇, 1852-1912) in 1868.
In 1869, the emperor left
the city where his predecessors had resided for over a thousand years to
establish his imperial court in Tôkyô. Since then, the imperial palace of Kyôto
has been abandoned. It is
said that the people of Kyôto stood by the roadside and wept when he left the
city.
The power struggle between shôgun and emperor was finally decided in the Boshin War (戊辰戦争, 1868-69). In the Battle of Toba-Fushimi (鳥羽・伏見の戦い , Toba-Fushimi no tatakai) in January 1868 the forces of the shôgunate and the allied forces of Chōshū, Satsuma and Tosa domains collided at Fushimi, Kyôto. The struggle lasted four days and ended with a decisive defeat for the shôgunate. The result was the transformation from a feudal society to modern Japan, beginning with the reign of Emperor Meiji (明治天皇, 1852-1912) in 1868.
During the Second World
War, many Japanese cities, such as Tôkyô or Ôsaka, were hit by heavy air raids
and Hiroshima and Nagasaki were reduced to rubble by atomic bombs. Kyôto alone
was spared air raids on the recommendation of some benevolent Japanologists so
that all cultural sites survived. For all Japanese, Kyôto today, therefore, serves
as the spiritual furusato (郷里) or home that still breathes the good old days.
In Kyôto there are six large tourist areas:
(1) The heart of Kyôto with the famous Kiyomizudera Temple, the traditional Gion Geisha quarter and the Heian Shrine. Additionally, there are dozens of first-class sights here and it is the area considered to be downtown Kyôto.
(2) In the northwest of Kyôto are Ginkakuji, the Golden Pavilion, the Ryônaji Temple with its world-famous rock garden and the Imperial Palace.
(3) In the northeast of Kyôtô are Kinkakuji, the Silver Pavilion, and the scenic Philosophers' Path.
(4) In the center of Kyôtô is the Nijôjô Palace.
(5) In the area around the Kyôtô Stn. is the Tôji Temple, the Temple Sanjûsangendô with its thousand Kannon statues and the National Museum.
(6) In the south is Arashiyama with its famous bamboo forest and the famous Tenryûji and Daikakuji Temples.
Near Kyôto there are also some spectacular attractions like Byôdôin Temple in Uji in the south and Ôhara in the north.
(1) The heart of Kyôto
Kiyomizudera Temple (清水寺)
Kiyomizudera, Kyôto |
Kiyomizudera literally means "pure water temple" and owes its name to the pure water of the fall. In 1994 the temple was included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Kiyomizudera is known above all for its wooden terrace, which was built in front of the main hall at a height of 13 metres on a slope. From the terrace you have a beautiful view of the numerous cherry and maple trees that transform the slope into a sea of flowers and colours in spring and autumn, and of Kyôto in the distance.
View from Kiyomizudera. |
San'nenzaka, Kyôto |
Next to Kiyomizudera are San'nenzka (三年坂) and Ninenzaka (二年坂) Slopes, the legendary streets of Kyôto that represent Japan's good old days. The historic stone-paved streets are lined with traditional Japanese buildings, shops, cafes and inns. San'nenzaka was built in 808 as access to the Kiyomizudera Temple.
Yasaska-no-tô, Kyôto. |
Kôdaiji Temple (高台寺)
Hashintei, Kôdaiji Temple, Kyôto. |
From here it is about 400 m to the Kôdaiji Temple, one of the most important temples of Kyôto. It was founded in 1606 in memory of Toyotomi Hideyoshi (see history) by his wife Nene (Kitano no Mandokoro, 北政所, 1547?-1624), who is also enshrined in the temple. The main buildings have richly decorated interiors and are surrounded by beautiful Zen gardens, including the rock garden Hashintei (波心庭).
Ihôhan, Kôdaiji. |
Shiguretei, Kôdaiji. |
The entrance fee includes the Kodaiji Shô Bijutsukan Museum (高台寺掌美術館), which displays treasures of Kodaiji, Nene and several lacquer works of art.
Only 2 minutes away from Kôdaiji Temple is the Kyôto Ryôzan
Gokoku Jinja Shrine (京都霊山護国神社). It honors the samurai who died fighting for the restoration of
imperial rule shortly before the Meiji Restauration in 1868 (see history). In the cemetery
behind it there are graves of warriors who fought against the
Tokugawa-Schôgunat, including the tomb of Sakamoto Ryôma, (坂本 龍馬, 1836-1867) a low-ranking samurai
from the Tosa Domain on Shikoku, who was murdered in December 1867, just one month before the restoration of
imperial power (see history). Sakamoto successfully negotiated the Satchō Alliance between the powerful
rival Chôshû and Satsuma domains and united them against the Tokugawa Bakufu. Ryôma was assassinated at the Ômiya Inn in Kyôto in 1867 (see Ômiya Inn
incident), presumabbly by the Shinsengumi, who were loyal to the shôgunate (see Mibudera).
Ishibe Koji Alley, Kyôto |
Gionkaku Tower |
Gion (祇園)
Gion is the traditional entertainment district of Kyôto. It lies north and south of Shijô Street and stretches from the Kamogawa River in the west to the Yasaka Jinja Shrine in the east. Gion is the heart of Kyôto's geisha culture.
Gion, Kyôto. |
Geishas (芸者) are highly qualified entertainers who perform at high class dinners, private parties and special events to give the event a special touch. To become a geisha, or geiki (芸妓) as they say in Kyôto, young ladies between the ages of 15 and 20, called maiko (舞妓) go through five years of rigorous training. Geishas also exist in other cities like Tôkyô, but they usually do not undergo the strict training that defines the maiko and geiko of Kyôto, whose services are today expensive and exclusive During her career, maikos and geikos are affiliated with, a certain lodging house, or okiya (置屋). The okiya funds the training of affiliates under certain ochaya (茶屋 ) or teahouses. Each okiya has its own 'branch' of names that link them together.
Kimi and Elchi in Gion, Kyôto. |
The
mother of the house, the okâsan (母さん)
handles a young geisha's engagements, supports her training and helps her
develop her skills through arranging lessons in dancing, singing, musical
instruments and tea ceremony. However,
many of today's postmodern geishas are increasingly independent, run their own
blogs or websites and have established themselves as successful business women.
However, overall their number is shrinking, and there are probably not much more than
1000 geishas throughout Japan.
Every autumn, from November 1st to 10th, the Gion Kaikan Theatre (祇園会館) features the Gion Odori (祇園をどり), a festival of traditional geiko dance. The motifs draw from classical Japanese culture and incorporate everyday life as well as folkloristic elements, for example from the Tale of Genji (see Ryozanji). Famous is also the Miyako Odori (都をどり), literally the capital dance, which takes place four times a day from the 1st to the 30th of April at the Gion Kôbu Kaburenjô Theatre (祇園甲部歌舞練場). Gion is most atmospheric in the early evening when the lanterns are lit and the apprentice geishas are on their way to their appointments through the backyards.
Every autumn, from November 1st to 10th, the Gion Kaikan Theatre (祇園会館) features the Gion Odori (祇園をどり), a festival of traditional geiko dance. The motifs draw from classical Japanese culture and incorporate everyday life as well as folkloristic elements, for example from the Tale of Genji (see Ryozanji). Famous is also the Miyako Odori (都をどり), literally the capital dance, which takes place four times a day from the 1st to the 30th of April at the Gion Kôbu Kaburenjô Theatre (祇園甲部歌舞練場). Gion is most atmospheric in the early evening when the lanterns are lit and the apprentice geishas are on their way to their appointments through the backyards.
A stone's throw away is Ken'ninji Temple, the oldest Zen temple in Kyôto, built in 1202 (see history). It consists of several large halls and gates around which about two dozen smaller buildings are arranged. Most of the site is open to the public, but visitors must pay an entrance fee to enter the main buildings.
A striking work of art in the temple are the twin dragons painted on the ceiling of the Dharma Hall.
At the eastern end of Gion is the site of the Yasaka Jinja Shrine (八坂神), also known as the Gion Shrine, which is perhaps the most famous shrine
in Kyôto and site of the famous Gion Matsuri Festival, which is celebrated every year in
June. The shrine is located between the popular Gion District and the
Higashiyama District and is often visited by tourists walking between the two
districts.
Behind Yaska Jinja lies the beautiful Maruyama Kôen Park (円山公園), which is very popular
for its cherry trees during the cherry blossom season. The heart of
the park is a high shidare zakura (weeping cherry tree), which is illuminated at
night druing hanami. From here you can continue to the temples of Chionin and Shôrenin.
Chionin (知恩院)
Chionin, Sanomon Gate |
Shôrenin (青蓮院) is one of the city's "monzeki" temples (門跡寺院, monzeki jiin), i.e. temples whose chief priests were traditionally members of the imperial family. A winding route takes visitors through the various temple buildings and gardens of Shôrenin. There is also a small shrine and a bamboo grove. Characteristic are the massive camphor trees in front of the temple. From here it is a 15 minute walk to the Heian Jingu Shrine (see below).
Pontochô, Kyôto |
Zuisenji (瑞泉寺) is
a small temple at the end of Pontochô, just before the Sanjô bridge. It reminds of
the public execution of the entire family of Toyotomi Hidetsugu (豊臣
秀次, 1568-1595), including children, wives and
mistresses, in Sanjôgawara (near the Sanjô bridge) in summer 1595 (Sanjôgawara
kôkaishokei, 三条河原の公開処刑).
Hidetsugu was the nephew and heir of Toyotomi
Hideyoshi, the unifier and ruler of Japan from 1590 to 1598 (see history). After the late
birth of Hideyoshi's son Hideyori (豊臣 秀頼, 1593-1615), he was (erroneously) indicted
for atrocities and attempted coup d'état. Hideyoshi ordered him to commit seppuku on Mount Koya, which was not unusual at the time. The harshness and
brutality with which 39 innocent women and children were executed, however, shocked
Japanese society.
Zuisenji, graves of the Hidetsugu family. |
Kyôto Kawaramachi Stn.
(京都河原町駅) is the terminus of the Hankyû Kyôto Main Line and a
central station when visiting downtown Kyôto. It is only 200 m away from Pontochô.
Across the river on the other side of the bridge is Gion Shijô Stn, (祇園四条駅)
the main metro in the north.
200m
north of Kawarmachidori is the site of the Ômiya
Inn Incident (近江屋事件). On the road there is a memorial stone
and a sign dedicated to Sakamoto Ryôma, a low ranking samurai from Tosa and
active opponent of the Tokugawa Shôgunate (see history and Kyôto Ryôzan Gokoku Jinja Shrine). Sakamoto fled from the Ômiya Inn
during the last days of his life. Knowing that his life was in danger, he moved
here because he believed the place was safe. On the night of December 10, 1867,
a group of assassins stormed the building and surprised him. No one knows for
sure who killed him, but the Shinsengumi (see Mibudera) were accused and their
leader, Kondô Isami, was executed for his role in the conspiracy.
Beautiful hand-painted folding fan |
Gion Shirakawa (祇園白川)
Gion Shirakawa |
On the other side of the river, about 200 m from Gion Shijô Stn., is Gion Shirakawa, another picturesque part of Gion that runs along the Shirakawa Canal parallel to Shijô Dori Street. The canal is lined with willow trees, first class restaurants and traditional tea houses, many of which have rooms overlooking the canal. As it is a little off the beaten track, the Shirakawa area is typically calmer than the Hanami Kôji Dori Street in Gion.
The very pleasant walk along the Shirakawa leads directly to the Kyôto Museum of
Traditional Art (Kyôto dentô sangyô fureaikan, 京都伝統産業ふれあい館) and to the park leading to the Hejan Jingû Shrine. The museum is a
great place to learn more about Kyôto's incredible traditional crafts. Admission
is free.
Heian Jingû Shrine (平安神宮)
Heian Jingu, tori gate |
The Heian Jingû Shrine is one of the most impressive Shintô shrines in
Kyôto. It was built in 1895 to commemorate the 1100th anniversary of the
founding of Kyôto as the capital of the country.
It is a replica of the original Heian Palace, the palace of the early emperors of Kyôto, but on a smaller scale.
Heian Jingu, Kyôto |
The Shin'en Garden (神苑) of Heian Jingu Shrine, which consists of four
different parts, is particularly beautiful and famous for its cherry blossoms
in spring and its irises in summer. You have to pay for the entrance
behind the main hall, but this garden is highly recommended.
North of the Heian shrine is the Kyôto
Handicraft Center (京都ハンディクラフトセンター). It's a good place to buy
souvenirs, as you can't find them elsewhere at a lower price.
Close by the Handicraft Center is Shôgoin (聖護院). The area around the temple is famous for
selling Shôgogin
yatsuhashi sweets, a Kyôto delicacy, originated in the Edo Period and
also for pickles (tsukemono) made from daikon radish and
turnips.
(2) North Eastern Kyôto (Higashiyama, 東山)
North Eastern Kyôto is a large area in the
Eastern Mountains (Higashiyama) of Kyôto with a number of temples listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. It also
includes the most authentic of all Kyôto's historic urban areas.
Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion, is a famous Zen temple in Kyôtô’s Eastern mountains. Modeled after the Golden Pavillion, it was built as the retirement villa of shôgun Ashikaga Yoshimasa (足利 義政, 1436-1490) in 1482. The building captivates with its simple elegance and, contrary to its name, was never covered with silver. It is also famous for its excellent stone and sand gardens. Already in 1952, it was declared an UNESO World Heritage Site.
Ginkakuji (銀閣寺)
Ginkakuji, the Silver Pavilion, is a famous Zen temple in Kyôtô’s Eastern mountains. Modeled after the Golden Pavillion, it was built as the retirement villa of shôgun Ashikaga Yoshimasa (足利 義政, 1436-1490) in 1482. The building captivates with its simple elegance and, contrary to its name, was never covered with silver. It is also famous for its excellent stone and sand gardens. Already in 1952, it was declared an UNESO World Heritage Site.
Close to Ginkakuji Temple is the former home, studio and garden of Hashimoto Kansetsu ( 橋本関雪,1883-1945), a distinguished painter in the Nihonga style. The Hakusa Sonsô Hashimoto Kansetsu Garden & Museum (白沙村荘 橋本関雪記念館) is a large site, which includes stone lanterns and other stone work such as Buddha statues, water basins, pillars and small pagodas. Paths of stepping stones lead through mossy, thatched gates over small bridges. It features several buildings and a museum, dedicated to Hashimoto Kansetsu.
Daimonjiyama (大文字山)
View from Daimonjiyama, Kyôto |
Trail leading up to Daimonjiyama |
Tetsugaku no michi, Philosopher's Path (哲学の道)
Kyôto, Philospher's Path |
Hônenin (法然院)
Hônenin
|
Hônenin, byakushadan
It has a tranquil carp pond and
is famous for its freshly raked sand garden called byakusadan (白砂壇).
Honenin's small cemetery holds some of the
ashes of novelist Tanizaki Jun’ichirô (谷崎 潤一郎, 1886-1965), who spent part of his
life in Kyôto.
His masterpiece Sasameyuki (細雪), literally "A Light Snowfall," but published in English as "The Makioka Sisters", is a detailed characterization of four daughters of a wealthy Ôsaka merchant family who see their way of life slipping away in the early years of World War II.
The inscription on the left tombstone shows the Japanese character for "simplicity" (seki, 寂 ) and the right one for "heaven" (sora, 空).
Lucky Tanizaki has not only two tombstones here, but he can also be visited Sugamo's Somei Reien Cemetary (染井霊園), Toshima Ward, Tôkyô, where the other part of his ashes is buried just behind the famous Japanese writer and close friend Akutagawa Ryûnosuke (芥川 龍之介, 1892-1927).
Tobstones of Tanizaki Jun'ichirô. |
His masterpiece Sasameyuki (細雪), literally "A Light Snowfall," but published in English as "The Makioka Sisters", is a detailed characterization of four daughters of a wealthy Ôsaka merchant family who see their way of life slipping away in the early years of World War II.
The inscription on the left tombstone shows the Japanese character for "simplicity" (seki, 寂 ) and the right one for "heaven" (sora, 空).
Lucky Tanizaki has not only two tombstones here, but he can also be visited Sugamo's Somei Reien Cemetary (染井霊園), Toshima Ward, Tôkyô, where the other part of his ashes is buried just behind the famous Japanese writer and close friend Akutagawa Ryûnosuke (芥川 龍之介, 1892-1927).
Pagoda, Shinshô Gokurakuji Temple. |
Thombs of the Aizu warriors, Kurodani Temple |
"Afro Buddha" at Kurodani Temple |
From the cemetery there are views
over the city below. Kurodani Temple is also home to the Gokô Shiyui Amida Butsu (五劫思惟阿弥陀仏) statue, which is also dubbed the
“Afro Buddha”.
At the southern end of Philosopher’s Path is Eikandô (永観堂), also called Zenrinji (禅林寺), a wonderful viewpoint in autumn. The temple has a long history, and there are a variety of buildings and a pond garden that visitors can explore. Eikandô's most recognizable building, however, is its pagoda, which is nestled in the trees on the hillside above the temple's other buildings Visitors can walk up to the pagoda, from where the rest of the temple grounds and the city of Kyôto can be seen. Eikandô is also home to the famous Mikaeri Amida (みかえり阿弥陀), the "looking back" Buddha, which, unlike most Buddha statues, looks over the shoulder, instead of straight forward.
Nanzenji Temple (南禅寺)
Nanzenji, Kyôto, aqueduct. |
Built during the Meiji Period (1868-1912; see history), the aqueduct is part of a canal system that was constructed to carry water and goods between Kyôto and Lake Biwa in neighboring Shiga Prefecture. Nanzenji, founded in 1291, is one of Kyôto’s most visited temples. Nanzenji's central temple grounds are open to the public free of charge, but separate fees apply for entering the Sanmon Gate, the Nanzenin sub-temple, and the Hôjô Teien garden.
The sub-temple Tenjuan (天授庵), one of
Nazenji’s sub-temples is very worth seeing. Tenjuan is noteworthy for its two
gardens, a rock garden and a pond garden, which are particularly attractive
during autumn when they are illuminated in the evenings.
Konchiin Temple |
At the outskirts of the Nanzenji temple
complex is Konchiin Temple (金地院), another sub-temple open to the
public. Alone his garden is worth the admission fee. It is fairly certain that
the famous garden designer and tea master Kobori Enshû (小堀遠州, 1579-1647) has built the garden. The main feature of the
garden is the duo of crane and turtle island, arranged with rocks and shrubs.
Wild Monkey, Konchiin |
If you are lucky enough to join special admission, you
can see the wall paintings of “Wild Monkey” by Hasegawa Tôhaku (長谷川 等伯, 1539-1610), one of the great painters of the Azuchi–Momoyama
period (see history). This monkey is trying to
scoop up the full moon reflected on the pond.
Murinan (無鄰菴)
Murinan, Kyôto |
A little south of Nanzenji
is Murinan, the private
villa of Yamagata Aritomo (山縣 有朋, 1838-1922), one of the founding
fathers of modern Japan. Murinan today is a nice place to sit down and relax. Yamagata was
one of the group of seven political leaders, later called the genrô, the
elder statesmen, who came to dominate the government of Japan after the Meiji
Restauration of 1868 (see history). He served as war minister and prime minister, but in contrast
to his political and military career he had a soft spot for horticulture.
Murinan features a lovely little pond and a very nice garden. Preserved are a small teahouse, a two-story traditional structure, and a Western style building converted into a museum In the second floor of this building you find the room where Yamagata and other politicians of the day sat down to discuss policy before the Russo-Japanese war (Nichi-Ro sensô, 日露戦争, 1904-05) in 1903, where Russia suffered defeat by Japan, which made Japan join the world powers. It is a nice place to feel the history, but also to forget the bustling world outside the garden wall.
Murinan features a lovely little pond and a very nice garden. Preserved are a small teahouse, a two-story traditional structure, and a Western style building converted into a museum In the second floor of this building you find the room where Yamagata and other politicians of the day sat down to discuss policy before the Russo-Japanese war (Nichi-Ro sensô, 日露戦争, 1904-05) in 1903, where Russia suffered defeat by Japan, which made Japan join the world powers. It is a nice place to feel the history, but also to forget the bustling world outside the garden wall.
(3) Northwestern Kyôto
Kinkakuji (金閣寺)
Kimi and Elchi at Kinkakuji, Kyôto |
Kinkakuji, the Golden Pavilion, is one of the most famous temples in Kyôto, is completely covered with gold-leaf, which offers a magnificent view, especially in the sunshine. The temple was the retirement villa of the Shôgun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (see history), and according to his will it became a Zen temple of the Rinzai sect after his death in 1408. The temple, overlooking a large pond, is – due to its beauty – maybe one of the most photographed temples in Kyôto. It burnt down several times; the last time in 1950, when it was set on fire by a fanatic monk.
Famous Japanese author and enfant terrible, Mishima Yukio (三島 由紀夫, 1925-1970), who committed suicide by ritual seppuku, published “The Temple of the Golden Pavilion “in 1956 (trans. in 1959 by Ivan Morris). The monk Mizoguchi, whom Mishima had visited in prison, is described as so obsessed with the beauty of the pavilion that he burned it down in the end to free himself from this obsession. In 1955 the pavilion was rebuilt in its original stage.
Ryôanji (龍安寺)
Ryôanji, Zen rock garden |
Sôami (相阿弥, ?-1525), the great landscape designer, Zen monk, master of the tea ceremony and painter, designed the garden in the karesansui style (枯山水), a dry landscape technique that uses combinations of stones and sand to suggest mountains and water.
Tôjiin (等持院)
Portrait of Daruma Daishi, Tôjiin |
The garden is superb, the halls are elegant and the teahouse is sublime. It was established by shôgun Ashikaga Takauji (see history), who’s tomb can be found between the east and west sections of the garden. Upon entering it’s main building the visitor is greeted by a large painting of Bodhidharma (called Daruma Daishi in Japanese), the 5th (or 6th) century Indian monk who is said to have transmitted the Zen teachings from India to China. A similar portrait can be found in Arahiyama's Tenryûji Temple.
Tôjiin, Kyôto. |
Nin'naji Temple (仁和寺)
Five-Storied Pagoda, Nin'naji. |
It has a massive main gate and an exquisite Five-Storied Pagoda. Nin'naji Temple also has a beautiful Japanese garden, which offers breath-taking views of the Five-Storied Pagoda.
Ninaji, Kyôto. |
The temple is especially famous for its Omuro Sakura cherry trees which are the latest blooming cherries in Kyôto.
Myôshinji
(妙心寺)
Kimi and Elchi at Myôshinji, Kyôto |
1 km southwest of Ninaji Temple is Myôshinji, a large temple complex, comprising around 50 subtemples. It is the head temple of the associated branch of Rinzai Zen Buddhism.
The grounds of the temple were formally a palace for the Emperor Hanazono (花園天皇, 1297-1348). Hanazono abdicated in 1318 and became a monk in 1335. Therafter he donated the palace to found the temple.
The gardens of Myôshinji are a nationally designated Place of Scenic Beauty and Historic Site. The temple's bell, which was cast in 698, is the oldest-known example of a Buddhist temple bell in Japan, as well as being the oldest bell in the world still in use. Some of the temples are open for visitors and some at occasional events.
Keishunin, Myôshinki |
"Three-day moon and pine trees on gold ground" |
This temple complex is not so crowded as many other places in Kyôto, which makes it a pleasant place to wander around.
Kitano Tenmangû (北野天満宮)
Kitano Tenmangû |
2 km to
the east is Kitano Tenmangû, a shrine built over 1000 years ago in honor of Sugawara no Michizane (菅原道真,
845-903), a scholar and politician who represented the middle Heian period (see history), and, for the peace of the nation. There is much more
to see on the extensive shrine grounds. It is known as one of the nation's best
places to see plum trees. When the flowers blossom, the baien (Plum Garden) is open to the public (entrance fee).
Just 300m south of Kitano Tenmangû is Taishôgun Shôtengai -Ichijô Yôkai Monster Street (大将軍商店街 一条妖怪ストリート). In this tight commercial lane it is all about yôkai, ghosts or monsters. As the legend goes, thousands of years ago, the yôkai got fed up with humans and came to live here in the northern part of Kyôto. The shop owners cultivate this legend and you will find yôkai decorating nearly the shops. The street is home to a shopping district called Taishôgun Shopping Street, where the 400-meter walk is populated with homemade sculptures of these legendary monsters. The shops are local neighborhood shops; however it is very nice to stroll around and you might find an interesting piece to bring home.
Nishijin (西陣)
Nishijin Kyôgoku Street, Kyôto |
Not far from here is the Nishijin Textile Center (西陣織会館), an alliance, consisting of more than 700 small companies that continue to foster and nurture the ancient textile tradition. It is located on Horikawa Street, just south of Imadegawa Stn. Nishijin Textile Center is a museum, a factory, a shop and a gallery all in one and a good address to by a souvenir. The shops around the center sell pieces of silk textiles at low prices.
Abe no Semei Jinja Shrine (安部晴明神社)
Abe no Seimei Jinja, Kyôto |
Abe no Seimei was considered a magician at the time. He served the emperor and the Fujiwara family as a diviner, adviser, and astrologer. In addition to telling fortunes, he also held special prayers and was known as a talented astronomer. Abe no Seimei became a great favorite of the Imperial court and on his death, the shrine was built in his memory by Emperor Ichijô (一条天皇, 980-1011) in 1007.
The shrine, which is on the site of his former residence, has many examples of the pentagram. The motif symbolizes the Five Chinese Elements: Wood, Fire, Earth, Metal, and Water. In this system, Fire generates Earth, which generates Metal, which generates Water, which generates Wood, which generates Fire. The five elements system is used extensively in a variety of design, time and spatial systems in the East.
Seimeimon, Abe no Seimei Jinja, Kyôto |
Shiramine Jingû (白峯神宮)
Shiramine Jingu, Kyôto |
The reason for this is that in Shiramine Jingu Seidaimyôjin (精大明神) is worshipped, who is considered the protective deity of the mari (鞠), balls used in sports and games).
The ancient game of kemari (蹴鞠), kickball, was played here by court nobles during the Nara, Heian, and Kamakura periods (see history) before it spread to the samurai and the common people. Every year on April 14th a kemari festival is held at the shrine, played by Shintô priests. Here one can wish success for future games or competitions or pray for the success of a football club.
Kyôto Gosho, The Imperial Palace (京都御所)
Kyôto Gosho, palace walls |
Another 1.5 km further east is Kyôto Gosho (京都御所), the Imperial Palace, which was the former
residence of the Japanese imperial family. The palace has been deserted since
1868 when the capital moved from Kyôto to Tôkyô (see history). The palace grounds can be
entered and explored without a guide, but the buildings cannot be entered
without a guide.
The palace is located in the extensive imperial park of Kyôto (京都御苑, Kyôto gyoen), an attractive park in the center of the city, which also includes the imperial palace Sentô Gosho (仙洞御所), a secondary palace complex and several other attractions.
A visit to the Imperial Palace Sentô requires participation in a free guided
tour of the Imperial Household Agency, which manages all the imperial properties.
However, the visit to the park is free of charge. If you come in spring, the
area has an additional attraction as visitors can see over 1,100 blossoming cherry
trees, including weeping cherry trees and Japanese garden cherries.
The palace is located in the extensive imperial park of Kyôto (京都御苑, Kyôto gyoen), an attractive park in the center of the city, which also includes the imperial palace Sentô Gosho (仙洞御所), a secondary palace complex and several other attractions.
Kyôto Imperial Park |
Located near the Imperial Palace towards the Kamogawa River is Rozanji Temple (盧山寺), most famous as the site of the former manse where Lady Murasaki Shikibu (see history), author of the world’s first novel, “The Tale of Genji”, spent her years. However, it is also known for its lovely garden, Genji Garden, named after the main character of Murasaki Shikibu’s novel.
Just North of the Imperial Palce, near Dôshisha
University is Shôkokuji Temple (相国寺) located. It is is a living Zen
temple of the Rinzai Sect od Buddhism and a tranquil spot close to the
Imadegawa subway station and the Kamo River. It is a large temple copmplex; at
present, there are 13 buildings, including Jôtenkaku Bitjutsukan Museum (承天閣美術館). The museum holds treasures from a number of
Shokokuji's sub-temples including Ginkakuji and Kinkakuji. Further it exhibits
a number of well preserved panel paintings.
Near the Imperial Palace, exactly where
Kamôgawa River and Takanogawa River converge lies Demachiyanagi Stn.
(出町柳駅) , the terminal of the Keihan line
and the starting point of Eizan line (to Kurama and Ôhara; see below) and the
access point to either Northwest or Northeast Kyôtô
Shimogamo Jinja Shrine (下鴨神社)
Shimogamo Jinja, Kyôto |
Shimogamo Jinja, Kyôro |
Kamigamo Jinja Shrine (上賀茂神社)
Kamigamo Jinja Shrine |
Daitokuji (大徳寺)
Sanmon, Daitokuji |
Kôtoin, Daitokuji |
Kôtôin (高桐院), located on the west side of Daitokuji, is famous for its maple trees, specifically in autumn, and it tranquil moss garden. It is probably the most popular temple in the compounds.
The Kôetsuji Temple (光悦寺) and its seven tea houses were the residence of Hon'ami Kôetsu (本阿弥光悦, 1558-1637), the most sophisticated tea master in
the Kyôto of his time, in the 16th century. Hon'ami and his family had strong beliefs
in the Nichiren sect of Buddhism, and the residence became a temple of the
Nichiren sect after his death. The seven tea houses, each with its style, are
located in different parts of the large temple garden. It is located in the
Takagamine district of northwestern Kyôto, near the Genkôan Temple (源光庵), one of the so-called
"Temples of Blood-soaked Ceilings" of Kyôto, on whose ceilings the
blood of warriors can be seen, and the Jôshôji Temple (常照寺), known for its association
with the courtesan Yoshino Tayu II (吉野太夫, 1606-1643) from the Edo period,
famous for her beauty and grace. Like the Genokoan, Joshoji Temple is famous
for its beautiful garden, which is especially popular during the autumn leaf
viewing in Kyôto, and for its cherry blossoms.
One kilometer east of Demachiyanagi Stn., and close to Kyôto University, is Yoshida Jinja Shrine (吉田神社), an ancient shrine on Yoshida hill. Surrounded by a deep forest, the shrine stands quietly amid an undisturbed stillness. It was founded in 859, during the Heian period, by the powerful Fujiwara clan (see history) and continues to be an important Shintô institution to this day. Many people overlook this shrine, since there are many tourist sites nearby, so you are probably almost alone here. On top of Yoshida hill sits Moan (茂庵), a special forest tea house, serving tea and sweets.
(4) Central Kyôto
Nijôjô Castle (二条城)
Nijôjô Castle was built in 1603 by Tokugawa Ieyasu (see history), the first Shôgun of the Edo Period (1603-1867) as his residence. Surviving in its original form, the palace consists of multiple separate buildings that are connected with each other by corridors with so called nightingale floors (uguisubari no rôka, 鴬張りの廊下), as they squeak when stepped upon as a security measure against invaders. The rooms feature elegantly decorated ceilings and beautifully painted sliding doors (fusuma, 襖), painted by the Kanô school (狩野派), one of the most famous schools of Japanese painting. The castle also features amongst others the Nihonmaru garden, a traditional Japanese landscape garden designed by the landscape architect and tea master Kobori Enshû (see Konchiin). The buildings are the best examples of castle palace architecture of Japan's feudal era, and the whole caste was designated a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994.
Not far from Nijô Castle you will find Shinsensen (神泉苑) (Sacred Spring Garden"), the original
palace and pleasure garden of Emperor Kanmu
(桓武天皇, 737-806) , the 50th Tennô according to the traditional order of succession. It
was built from 794, when the capital was moved to
Kyôto (Heiankyô; see history) and was once
the playground of the Heian nobility who held moon-viewing and boating parties
on the lake. Even though it once was much larger, it has been restored to
resemble its original layout with the Hôjô ike pond (法成池) at its center. Today it belongs as a
sub-temple to the Tôji near Kôto Stn. (admission free).
Mibudera
(壬生寺)
Mibudera , one of Kyôto’s oldest temples once served as the
headquarters to the Shinsengumi (新選組), a special samurai force organized by the Shôgunate
to protect their interests in Kyôto during a time of political turmoil shortly
before the Meiji-Restauration of 1868 (see history). The continuous opening of
Japan, which began with in the 60s
of the 19th century, caused a great deal of controversy among the population.
As a result, various military movements arose. Some fought for the opening of
Japan and the associated preservation of the Tokugawa-Shôgunate. Others, the
Shishi (志士), which
included masterless samurai (rōnin)
formally employed by the Chôshû and Tosa clans for
example, made themselves felt with the slogan sonnô jôi (尊皇攘夷), “revere the Emperor, expel
the foreign barbarians” and demanded that power be returned to the emperor, and
thus voted against the opening to Western foreign countries.
Ikedaya, Kyôto |
Mibudera, Kyôto |
The power struggle between the Shôgun and Tennô was finally fought in the Boshin war (1868-69, see history). The Shinsengumi remained loyal to the Tokugawa Shôgunate and when the latter collapsed, the Shinsengumi were expelled from Kyôto. Following their departure, they fought in the Battle of Toba–Fushimi (鳥羽・伏見の戦い Toba-Fushimi no tatakai) in January 1868, where Kondô suffered a gunshot wound at Fushimi. The battle ended in a decisive defeat for the Shôgunate, paving the way for Japan’s modernization. At the same time it meant the downfall of traditional Japan and its samurai. Kondô, who had been on the wrong side was arrested and executed by the winning forces.
Several graves of Shinsengumi members lay within the temple grounds, as
well as a statue of their leader Kondô Isami. Their
banner, which carried the sign makoto
(誠), Japanese for loyalty, as well as other memorabilia are for sale in the
temple.
(5) Around Kyôtô Stn.
The area around the station is more modern and
urban than other areas of Kyôto, and yet in 15 minutes you are at some of the
city's most important historical sites, including the Tôji and Higashi Honganji
Temples, both UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Tôji Temple (東寺)
Tôji, pagoda |
Tôji Temple ist aporx. 15 min southwest on foot from
Kyôtô Stn. Strolling through the narrow streets to
the Tôji Temple, you will get a feel for what it was like to be a citizen of Kyôto
hundreds of years ago. The elegant lines of its famous five-storey pagoda rise
in an impressive sight over the surrounding roofs. It was founded at the beginning of
the Heian Period (see history), just after the capital was moved to Kyôto in
the late 700s. About thirty years after the temple's establishment, Kôbô Daishi (弘法大師, 774-835), or Kûkai (空海), the founder of the
Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism, was appointed head priest of Tôji. Since then the
temple became one of the most important Shingon temples besides the sect's
headquarters on Mount Koya. A popular flea
market, the Kôbôichi Market (弘法市) is held on the 21st of each month
at Tôji Temple from the early morning hours until around 16:30h in the
afternoon. The entry to the temple is partly free.
Higashi Honganji (東本願寺) and Nishi Honganji (西本願寺)
Higashi Honganji |
Higashi Honganji
was established in 1602 by Tokugawa Ieyasu when he split the temple in two - Nishi Honganji is a few street blocks away to the West being the other - in order to diminish its power.
While the founder's gate (Goeidô mon; 御影堂門 ) of Higashi Honganji is one of the three
largest in Kyôto, the founder's hall (Goeidô) is one of the largest wooden
buildings in the world and contains 927 Tatami mats.
Kimi ans Elchi in front of the Karamon |
The Karamon (唐門) gate of
Nishi Honganji was originally built for Toyotomi Hideyoshi's Fushimi castle,
probably around 1598 (see history). After the castle was dismantled in 1623, it was moved to
Nishi Honganji in 1632 for a planned visit of the shôgun Tokugawa Iemitsu to the temple.
This lacquered gate is a msterpiece of art. Entrance to Hisgahi and Nishi Honganji
is free.
Shôseien (渉成園)
Shôseien, Kyôto. |
A small Japanese garden, Shôseien, is located another few street blocks east of Higashi Honganji and serves as a detached temple residence of Higashi Honganji. Today, the garden with its pond and beautiful autumn colors is open to the public. It is a very lovely garden with several tea houses and buildings of interest and very worth the small entrance fee.
Kyôto National Museum (Kyôto kokuritsu
hakubutsukan, 京都国立博物館)
Sanjûsangendô (三十三間堂)
Sanjûsangendô |
Chishakuin Temple (智積院)
Chishakuin Temple, shôhekiga. |
Next to Sanchûsangendô is Chishakuin Temple,which is famous for his beautiful historic garden and painted sliding doors. It is less crowded than neighboring Sanjûsangendô. The beautiful garden can be enjoyed from the veranda of the Grand Drawing Room in any season, and the interior is lavishly decorated in both modern and traditional screen- and wall paintings (shōhekiga, 障壁画), some of which are recreations of gold-leaf covered National Treasures that can be seen in the temple’s Treasure Hall. The masterpieces on display in the Treasure Hall already justify the entrance fee.
(6) Arashiyama (嵐山)
Arashiyama |
Arashima is both: a beautiful landscape scenery and culture. You need at
least one day to explore Arashiyama. Even though it lies on the western
outskirts of Kyôto it is very crowded by locals and tourists alike. It is situated at
the shores of Hozugawa River (保津川) and is a nationally designated Historic Site and Place
of Scenic Beauty.
After passing Togestukyô Bridge (渡月橋), the Moon Crossing Bridge, Arashiyama's most iconic landmark, you will reach
the main street, which forms the heart of Arashiyama. Here you will find numerous
restaurants and shops selling traditional handicrafts and souvenirs.
Tenryûji Temple (天龍寺)
Tenrûji, Arashiyama |
Soon you will arrive at Arashiyamas first highlight, Tenryûji Temple, the most important temple in this district.
It is famed for one of the finest gardens in Kyôto and wonderful mountain views,
the lovely Sôgenchi Teien (曹源池庭園). Built in 1339 by the the founder and first shôgun
of the Ashikaga Shôgunate, Ashikaga Takauji (see history), it was dedicated to Emperor Go
Daigo,
who had just passed away.
It is famous for the Cloud Dragon on the ceiling of Tenryûji's Hatto Dharma Hall, which was painted in 1997 by the renowned nihonga artist Kayama Matazô (加山 又造1927-2004), as one of the projects commemorating the 650th anniversary of the death of Tenryûji's founder, Musô Soseki (see Tôjiin), a Rinzai Zen Buddhist monk and teacher, and a calligraphist, poet, and garden designer and the most famous monk of his time.
Sôgenchi Teien, Tenryûji |
It is famous for the Cloud Dragon on the ceiling of Tenryûji's Hatto Dharma Hall, which was painted in 1997 by the renowned nihonga artist Kayama Matazô (加山 又造1927-2004), as one of the projects commemorating the 650th anniversary of the death of Tenryûji's founder, Musô Soseki (see Tôjiin), a Rinzai Zen Buddhist monk and teacher, and a calligraphist, poet, and garden designer and the most famous monk of his time.
Just behind Tenryûji temple is the small Nonomiya Jinja Shrine (野宮神社) In the
Heian period (see history), successive imperial princesses stayed in the Nonomiya Shrine for
a year or more to purify themselves before becoming representatives of the
imperial family at the Ise Jingû Shrine (伊勢神宮), the highest Shintô sanctuary of
Japan. It already apperars in in the tenth chapter of the Tale of Genji written by Murasaki Shikibu (see Rozanji) in the early years of the 11th century.
Arashiyama Bamboo Grove |
Close to the shrine is the Arashiyama Bamboo Grove, one of Kyôto’s top sights and for good reason: standing amid these
soaring stalks of bamboo is like being in another world.
Ôkôchi Sansô Villa (大河内山荘) is one of the top sights in Kyôto. It rivals any
of the city’s imperial properties, and you don’t need reservations to enter The
villa was formerly the estate of the famed film actor Ôkôchi Denjirô (大河内 傳次郎,1898-1962).
It has a high entrance fee, however, the main house here is one of the finest
examples of traditional Japanese residential architecture and it has a
wonderful tea house and garden.
Arashiyama, view from Kameyama Kôen Park |
If you want to escape the crowds, walk up to Kameyama Kôen Park (亀山公園). Here you can enjoy wonderful views of the
landscape and the Ôji River below.
Hôgôin (宝厳院), a sub-tmple of Tenryûji, is a small temple by the riverside. With
fewer visitors, it is quieter to enjoy the tranquility inside the temple. Its Shishiku
Garden (獅子吼の庭), "the garden of the lion’s roar", has been famous ever since
antiquity. However it is not always open, but during spring or during special
admission times in fall it opens for visitors. In case you are lucky and it is
open, you should visit the temple.
Rakushisaha, Arashiyama |
Rakkushisha (落柿舎) the "Hut of Fallen Persimmons,"
is a famous landmark in the world of haiku poetry. It is a simple hermitage,
its walls made of clay, its roof of thatch, in what was once a remote part of
Kyôto. Less remote today, it still possesses a sense of tranquil seclusion. On
the grounds are stone tablets inscribed with haiku, while ink-brushed poems
hang on the walls inside. It was created by Mukai Kyorai (向井 去来, 1651-1704), chief disciple of Matsuo
Bashô (松尾 芭蕉, 1644-1694), the great master of haiku poetry.
Nisonin, graves of the three emperors. |
Nisonin
Temple (二尊院) is similar to Jôjakkôji a
hillside temple with slightly larger and imposing buildings. A generally
understated atmosphere on the temple grounds is partly due to the overhanging
trees along the approach. Founded in the mid-9th century, Nisonin is a temple of
the Tendai sect. There are views over the city from the upper grounds. In the temple's
cemetery, the ashes of three emperors, Emperor Tsuchimikado (土御門, 1195(96)-1231), Emperor Go Saga (後嵯峨, 1220-1272),
and Emperor Kameyama (亀山, 1249-1305), and nobles are
interred.
Giôji Temple, Arashiyama. |
Giôji Temple (祇王寺) is even more nestled into the forest than Jôjakkôji and Nisonin. It is known for its moss garden that is punctuated with tall maple trees. The temple's entrance gate and small main hall have thatched roofs. The latter has an attractive round window looking into the garden. You can visit the Giôji in combination with Daikakuji temple.
Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street |
Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street (嵯峨鳥居本)
Much of this street along the way to
the Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple has been preserved in the style of the Meiji
Period
(1868-1912). Many of the buildings are traditional machiya ("town houses") that served as private residences
but have since been converted into shops and restaurants. The red tori and the
old tea house at the end of the street is worth seeing.
Saga Toriimoto Preserved Street, Arashiyama. |
Adashino Nenutsuji Temple, Arashiyama. |
Adashino Nenbutsuji (化野念仏寺) is located at the end of the Saga-Toriimoto Preserved Street. The temple was founded in the early 9th century when the famous monk Kobo Daishi (see Tôji) placed stone statues for the souls of the dead here. Today, the temple grounds are covered by hundreds of such stone statues. In the back of the temple, a short path leads through a bamboo forest.
Otagi Nenbutsuji TempleArashiyama. |
Another ten minute walk north Adashino Nenbutsuji, is the Otagi Nenbutsuji Temple (愛宕念仏寺), which is famous for its 1200 stone statues of rakan (羅漢), devoted followers of Buddhism, who advanced along the path of Enlightenment, each with a different facial expression. Created relatively recently in the 1980s and early 1990s, the many statues stand across the temple grounds which cover part of a forested mountain slope. It is a very lovely temple, very much worth visiting.
Daikakuji (大覚寺)
Daikakuji, Arashiyama, Kyôto |
Daikakuji,
the second important temple besides Tenryûji, is located in the north east of
Arashiyama. It is a temple of the Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism. Formerly
the residence of Emperor Saga (嵯峨天皇, 786-842), the buildings were converted into a temple in 876.
During its history the temple traditionally had members of the imperial family serve as the head priest (see Shôrenin). It is made up of several buildings connected by elevated wooden walkways. The covered corridors, like the "nightingale floors" of Nijôjô's Ninomaru Palace, squeak quietly as you walk over them.
During its history the temple traditionally had members of the imperial family serve as the head priest (see Shôrenin). It is made up of several buildings connected by elevated wooden walkways. The covered corridors, like the "nightingale floors" of Nijôjô's Ninomaru Palace, squeak quietly as you walk over them.
Daikakuji, painted fusama
Many of the buildings are decorated with painted fusuma doors by the famous Kanô school (狩野派), which was the dominant style of painting from the late 15th century until theMeji Period (see Nijôjô).
Beside
the main temple buildings there is the large Ôsawa no ike pond (大沢池) and a pagoda. Daikakuji is also featured in the Tale of Genji (see Ryozanji).
Also known as Saga Shakado,
Seiryôji Temple (清凉寺) was
constructed in 895 as a replica of Wutai Shan or Qingliang Shan of China. The
temple has as its principal image a wooden standing statue of Shaka, one of the
three most famous Buddhas of Japan. Seiryôji was originally the villa of
Minamoto no Toru (源 融, 822-895), the inspiration for Price Genji in Murasaki Shikibu's "The Tale of Genji" (see Rozanji).
Hôkyôin Temple (宝筐院) was built during the Heian period
(see history) by Emperor Go Shirakawa (後白河天皇, 1127-1192) and was originally
named Zenjyûji Temple. This Temple is surrounded by a
picturesque garden, which is particularly beautiful in autumn.
Around Kyôto
South of Kyôto
Tôfukuji, Kyôto |
Wodden bridge, Tôfukuji. |
Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine (伏見稲荷大社)
Fushimi Inari Taisha |
Fushimi Inari Taisha |
Obakusan Manpukuji (黄檗山萬福寺)
Obakusan Manpukuji, wodden corridor |
Manpukuji Temple is famed for its pine trees and architecture and its long wooden corridors. Along with Byôdôin, Manpukuji makes a good day trip to Uji.
Fushimi Castle (伏見城) in the south east of Kyôto city, was originally built for Toyotomi Hideyoshi (see history) between 1592-1594 and it was here where he passed away in 1598. The Fushimi Castle you can see today was built in concrete in 1964. The interior is closed but it is still possible to visit the grounds of the castle. Nearby is the Mausoleum of Emperor Meiji (Meiji tenno no ryôba, 明治天皇の陵墓), as is Nogi Shrine - dedicated to Nogi Maresuke (乃木 希典, 1849-1912), a general who committed suicide along with his wife after the funeral of Emperor Meiji (明治天皇, 1852-1912).
Also of historical interest is the Teradaya (寺田屋), - an inn where Sakamoto Ryôma (see history), an active opponent of the Tokugawa Shôgunate. was saved by his future wife running naked from her bath to warn him of approaching assassins. Today, visitors to the reconstructed Teradaya can still see a sword cut in one of the wooden pillars at the inn. Ryôma was assassinated at the Ômiya Inn in Kyôto in 1867 (see Ômiya Inn incident). Shinsengumi leader Kondô Isami (see Mibudera) was later executed on being responsible for the assassination.
Uji (宇治市) and Byôdôin (平等院)
Byôdoin, Uji, Kyôto |
Byôdôin (平等院) is World Heritage Site on
the west bank of the Uji River and a designated National Treasure and Important
Cultural Property. After the founding of Kyôto as the imperial capital in the
8th century, Uji became a retreat for court nobles, who built summer villas
here. Byôdôin was originally an aristocrat's villa, built in 998, that was
converted into a temple in 1052. It is renowned for its beautiful Phoenix
Hall (hôôdô, 鳳凰堂). Phoenix Hall literally
represents the mythical Chinese Phoenix (Ho-o) descending to earth. The Phoenix
Hall is said to the be sole original building still remaining from the time of
the temple's founding. Byôdôin is also famous for its exquisite garden, the
oldest, and one of Japan's few remaining, Pure Land Buddhist gardens,
characterized by a 'natural' layout.
Uji is a lovely small town, famous for its excellent green tea. The picturesque Uji River is flowing through the center of the town. With its numerous gardens and tea houses, Uji invites you to take a walk. There are also many tea shops in Uji, some of which have existed for centuries. Here you can buy tea, learn about the history of tea and learn how to prepare matcha.
Uji is a lovely small town, famous for its excellent green tea. The picturesque Uji River is flowing through the center of the town. With its numerous gardens and tea houses, Uji invites you to take a walk. There are also many tea shops in Uji, some of which have existed for centuries. Here you can buy tea, learn about the history of tea and learn how to prepare matcha.
North of Kyôto
Ôhara (大原)
Ôhara, Kyôto. |
Ôhara is a rural city located in the mountains north of Kyôto. It is famous for its rural beauty and the historical and spiritual significance of its many temples.
Since Ôhara is located in the northern mountains of Kyôto, you can expect some snow in winter.
Sanzenin Temple (三千院)
Sanzenin, Ôhara. |
The most famous temple in Ôhara is Sanzenin Temple, which is especially popular in mid-November during the autumn leaf season. Sanzenin is a temple of the Tendai sect of Japanese Buddhism and was founded by the famous monk Saichô (最澄, 766(67)-822), who introduced Tendai Buddhism to Japan in 804.
Sanzenin is one of Kyôto's monzeki temples (see Shôrenin), whose head priests were formerly members of the imperial family. It is surrounded by traditional Japanese gardens and paths. Its moss garden is particularly beautiful. There are also a number of smaller temples in the area.
Sanzenin, Ôhara. |
The access road from the Ôhara bus stop to Sanzenin is lined with shops and restaurants for temple visitors. As you stroll through the village, you should stop by one of the miso shops for which Ôhara is famous. There are over a hundred different types of miso (味噌), the traditional Japanese seasoning made by fermenting soybeans. The local saikyô miso (西京味噌) has a sweet taste and is the gourmet among the misos, which is why it is usually used for sauces instead of soups.
Kimi and Elchi at the Otonashi Waterfall. |
Otonashi Waterfall (Otonashi-no-taki, 音無の滝)
Near Sanzenin is the Otonashi Waterfall, the "Soundless Waterfall". According to legend, the sound of the waterfall has disappeared because it merged with the chant of the monk Ryônin (良忍, 1072 (?)-1132).
Ryônin, who had retired to Ôhara in his twenties, was the founder of Yûzû nenbutsu shû (融通念仏宗), which focuses on the ritual recitation of nenbutsu, the name of the Amitabha Buddha.
The scenery along the path to the waterfall is a clear reminder that you are far away in nature. Here you can enjoy the greenery and relax from visiting temples.
Jakkôin Temple (寂光院)
Jakkôin, Ôhara. |
The Jakkôin Temple is located on the other side of the valley. Jakkôin, a temple of the Tendai sect, is rightly famous for the beauty and tranquility of its garden and the beautiful autumn foliage. Legend has it that Jakkôin dates from the 7th century, the Nara period, and was built by Lord Shotoku Taishi (see history). The metal lantern in front of the main hall was brought from Fushimi-Momoyama Castle and donated to the temple of Toyotomi Hideyoshi (see history). Near Jakkôin you will also find two onsen where you can take a bath in a hot spring or stay overnight.
To reach Ôhara you can catch the Bus No. 16 from the bus stop at Shijô-Kawaramachi Subway Stn. or Bus 17 from Kyoto Stn.You can also get on bus No. 19 at Kokusaikaikan Station on the Kurasama Line of the Kyoto subway.