Kôbe

神戸

 

Kimi and Elchi in Kôbe

Kôbe is a port city about 30 kilometers west of Osaka on Osaka Bay. With around 1.5 million inhabitants, it is the sixth-largest city in Japan. Its port was one of the first to be opened to foreign trade in the 19th century alongside the port of Yokohama and others. Kôbe's past as a center for exchange with foreign cultures is still very present in the city, creating a very unique and cosmopolitan atmosphere. Due to its location between the sea and Mount Rokkô, Kôbe is considered one of Japan's most attractive cities in Japan. Kôbe is also known for its famous Kôbe beef.

There are four major tourist areas in Kôbe: (1) The area around Sannomiya Station with its numerous restaurants and shopping malls and the famous Ikuta Shrine, (2) Nankinmachi, Kôbe's Chinatown and the Motomachi shopping district (3) the futuristic Meriken Park, Kôbe's waterfront, including the Earthquake Memorial Park and Harborland Park, a popular shopping and entertainment district, and, (4) the hilly Kitano District, the former residential area of foreign merchants.

 

Some history

Kôbe is the capital of the prefecture Hyôgo in west-central Honshû, Japan. With the opening of the port of Kôbe on January 1, 1868, Kôbe developed into an international port city. In the following years, Kôbe established itself as one of Japan's most important ports. After the opening of the port, many Americans, Europeans and Chinese came to Kôbe and founded foreign settlements. Through this exchange, Western food, clothing, and entertainment found their way into Japanese culture and made Kôbe one of the first cities in Japan to be introduced to a foreign culture. Among the many products developed in Kôbe during this period are clothing, furniture, sweets, and beef, which are still characteristic products of Kôbe today. During the Second World War, Kôbe was severely bombed by the Western Allies.

On January 17, 1995, at 05:46 a.m., a severe earthquake shook Kôbe, which to this day was one of the strongest in Japan. 6,000 inhabitants were killed and 300,000 buildings razed to the ground. Large parts of the port facilities and other parts of the city were destroyed. It was one of the most expensive natural disasters in modern Japanese history. The earthquake destroyed the Hanshin Expressway, an elevated highway that collapsed dramatically.

In Japan, the earthquake is known as the Great Hanshin Earthquake (or the Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake). After the earthquake, the largest and most uncontrollable fire broke out in the Nagata district of Kôbe, an area wich had the highest population density in town. As water from the hydrants was unavailable due to drought, fighting the fire was extremely difficult and many buildings burned out.

The government was severely criticized for its slow and ineffective response and its initial refusal to accept aid from abroad. Under the law, local leaders - both in the city and in the prefecture - had to seek the support of the national Self-Defense Forces (SDF) in an emergency. However, there was a general reluctance to convene the military, and all communication networks had failed, making communication extremely difficult.

Contrary to the ineffectiveness of local politicians and bureaucrats in dealing with the disaster, the population showed an overwhelming willingness to help. More than a million volunteers from all over Japan came to Kôbe to help the victims of the earthquake, which is why it is said that the earthquake marked the beginning of "volunteerism" in Japan. The increase in the number of volunteers can be seen as an indicator of a new awareness among citizens who have recognized the limits of the state's ability to organize. The boom in volunteering marks the beginning of the rise of civil society in Japan.

To commemorate the recovery of Kôbe after the 1995 earthquake, the city organizes an annual event called "Kôbe Luminaire" (神戸ルミナリエ), during which the Town Hall is decorated every December with illuminated metal arches.

 

Arriving in Kôbe

Most people arrive at Sannomiya Stn. (JR) or Shin Kôbe Stn. (Shinkansen). Both stations are centrally located. If you arrive with the Shinkansen, take the local Seishin-Yamate Line  towards Seishin-Chûô to Sannomiya Stn. (2 minutes). You can easily walk from Sannomiya Stn. to all tourist attractions. Another option is Motomachi Stn. (JR). The station is the closest access point to the Motomachi shopping area and Nankinmachi. Shin-Kôbe Stn. is within a walking distance to the Kitano District and the Nunobiki Waterfalls.

 

 

(1) Sannomiya (三宮)and Ikuta Shrine (生田神社)

Sannomiya Shrine

Sannomiya is the largest downtown area of the city, which also includes some large shopping arcades. The name comes from the nearby Sannomiya Shrine (三宮神社), a local branch of the Ikuta Shrine. The shrine is very small, but it was the site of the incident of Kôbe (神戸事件, also known as Bizen Affair 備前事件). In February 1868, shortly after the opening of the port of Kôbe to foreigners, the commander of the guard corps of the Prince of Bizen, who crossed the city of Kôbe on that day, ordered to open fire on some foreigners who, in his eyes, were guilty of crossing the path of the procession near the sanctuary of Sannomiya.

 

Seppuku of Taki Zenzabuo

The foreigners concerned were not killed, but the foreign representatives requested and quickly received the death sentence (by Seppuku) of Taki Zenzaburô (滝善三郎, 1837-1868), the officer who ordered the soldiers to open fire against the foreigners.
Seven representatives of foreign powers had to take part in this ceremony, which was the first ever that foreigners were allowed to take part. The shrine is located 800 meters from the railway station, near the Daimaru Kôbe Store towards Motomachi. If you want to read more about the incident, see Ruxton's article on the affair.

Ikuta jinja, Kôbe

Just north of Sannomiya is the famous Ikuta Shrine, which is probably one of the oldest shrines in the country. The Ikuta shrine dates from around 201 A.D. and is made of wood. It is also closely linked to the sake producing industry in Kôbe. 

Ikuta jinja, Kôbe

The shrine is surrounded by a forest with impressive camphor trees. Its foundation is recorded in Nihon Shôki (日本書紀, also known as Nihongi 日本紀), the Chronicles of Japan, the second oldest book in classical Japanese history (translated by W. G. Aston). It is said to have been built by Empress Jingû (神功皇后, ca. 201-269) at the beginning of the 3rd century AD. The Ikuta Shrine is mainly worshipped as a guardian of health.

Ikuta jinja, tori leading to the forest

The forest behind the shrine is particularly worth seeing in autumn. Today it is a rather small park, but it used to be much bigger. During the Genpei War (源平合, 1180-85), a national civil war between the Taira (平) or Heike (平家) and Minamoto (源) or Genji (源氏) families, which led to the decline of the Taira and the founding of the Kamakura Shogunate under Minamoto no Yoritomo (源 頼朝, 1147-1199) in 1192, it was the scene of the Battle of Ichi no tani (一ノ谷の戦い). The battle led to the death of Taira no Atsumori (平 敦盛; 1169-1184), a young samurai, by the hands of Kumagai Naozane (熊谷 次郎 直実; 1141-1207), a famous soldier of the Genji (Minamoto). Atsumori's death is tragically portrayed in the Heike Monogatari (平家物語, 1371; The Tale of the Heike; available in several translations) and several Noh and Kabuki plays. His head is buried in Suma Temple in Suma (see below). Today Ikuta Shrine is a very peaceful place in the middle of the bustling district of Sannomiya.

Just south of Sannomiya Stn. lies the Town Hall of Kôbe (神戸市役所). From the viewing platform on the 24th floor, you can enjoy a panoramic view of the mountains and the sea. The view is particularly beautiful at night. It is open until 22 o'clock. Admission is free.

Sanchika (さんちか) is a popular shopping center with around 120 shops and many local customers and tourists. The Sannomiya Center Gai Shopping Street (三宮センター街) is another covered shopping street where you can find local and foreign brands. There are also many hotels and restaurants where you can eat local Kôbe beef. 

(2) Nankinmachi (南京町) and Motomachi (元町)

Pavillon in Nankinmachi by nighti, Kôbe.

Nankinmachi in the center of Kôbe is a popular shopping and dining area. It was built in 1868 when the port of Kôbe was opened to foreigners, including Chinese immigrants. 

The new arrivals settled at the western end of the foreign district of Kôbe, which soon became the center of subsequent Chinese migrants. During this time, the Chinese were referred to by the Japanese as "people of Nanking", which is why the settlement was called "Nankinmachi". Nankinmachi currently has about 10,000 inhabitants

Xian gate, Nankinmachi, Kôbe

The Chinese community erected three archways that delimit Nankinmachi: Chang'an Gate (長安門) in the east, Xian Gate (西安門) in the west and Nanlou Gate (南樓門) in the south. At the north entrance there is no archway. It is instead guarded by a pair of lions. A pavilion with stone carvings of the 12 Chinese zodiac signs marks the intersection of the north-south-east-west axis of Nankinmachi. In Nankinmachi you can enjoy various Chinese dishes, many of which have been Japanized to a certain degree over time. 

Nankinmachi, Kôbe, lion dance

During the Great Hanshin Earthquake it was severely damaged but it was quickly rebuilt as a center of the Chinese community in Kôbe.

Nankinmachi hosts several cultural events, such as dragon or lion dances at New Year or Spring Festival. It is a ten-minute walk Southwest from Sannomiya Stn. and a five minute walk from Meriken Park.

Kôbe Motomachi Shopping Street (神戸元町商店街) with more than 140 years of history is the leading shopping street in Kôbe. It is more than 1 km long and has more than 300 shops. The street is located in the center of Kôbe near Nankinmachi.

(3) Meriken Park (メリケンパークand Harborland Park (神戸ハーバーランド)

Meriken Park, Kôbe

 

 

Meriken Park is the promenade of Kôbe with a collection of installations of modern art. It is home to some of the city's most famous contemporary architecture, such as the red Kôbe Port Tower (神戸ポートタワー). 

 

The tower dates from 1962 and was the first building of its kind in Japan to be built from a complex series of pipes. The tower stands at an altitude of about 108 meters and you can take the elevator to one of the panoramice terraces, which offer a 360-degree view of the city (entrance fee).

  

Meriken Park, Maritime Museum and Port Tower

The Maritime Museum Kôbe (神戸海洋博物館) is located in the middle of the park, in a building overlooked by a dramatic white steel scaffolding that is intended to evoke the image of sails. Half of the building is dedicated to seafaring. The other half of the Maritime Museum building is used by the "Kawasaki Good Times World", the corporate museum of Kawasaki Heavy Industries.

 

Eathquake Memorial Park, Kôbe

Meriken Park was devastated by the Great Hanshin Earthquake in 1995. A short section of the damaged promenade was not repaired to commemorate the enormous destructive power of the earthquake, and today forms the Earthquake Memorial Park (神戸港震災メモリアルパーク). It shows the immense damage caused by the earthquake that shook the city in 1995.

  

 

 

Harborland Park, Kôbe

Kôbe Harborland Park is located next to Meriken Park. It is above all a shopping and entertainment area. One of the main streets that runs through the center of Kôbe Harborland, the Gaslight Street, is lit up in the evening by old-fashioned gas lanterns and electric lamps, other attractions in the district are the Aka Renga Sôkô (黒レンガ倉庫), a small collection of 19th-century brick warehouses from a former shipyard that used to cover the waterfront promenade. Many contemporary works of art can also be found here.

 

(4) Kitano District (北野町)

Ijinkan, Kitanochô, Kôbe

Kitanochô, the former foreign district, is situated in front of Rokkô Mountain. More than a dozen of the former mansions, known as "Ijinkan", are located in the area and are open to the public as museums (entrance fee). Here you can find the England House, the France House, the former Chinese Consulate or the Dutch Museum. The German House is the only one that does not charge an entrance fee. The entire district is within walking distance and offers a variety of cafés, restaurants, and boutiques.

View of Kôbe from Kitano Shrine

On a steep hill behind the houses is the Kitano Tenmangû Shrine (北野天満宮). The shrine was built in 947 AD. The main hall was built about 260 years ago.

 

Kimi and Elchi at Kitano Shrine

During the plum blossom season, Baien (Plum Garden) is one of the best places in the nation to see plum blossoms. During the season of the red maple trees, Momijien (autumn maple garden) offers a good place to see the autumn leaves. This small shrine offers a breathtaking view of Kôbe. Don't miss the visit.

Kôbe Mosque

Kitanochô is also home to the Kôbe Mosque (神戸モスク), the first Japanese mosque founded in 1935. The mosque was built between 1928 and 1935 by Indian, Tatar and Turkish muslims from the neighborhood through donations from the Islamic Committee of Kôbe. The architecture of the mosque is unique. It was built in the traditional Indian style by Czech architect Jan Josef Svagr (1885-1969) who also designed several other religious buildings in Japan. The mosque is open to all visitors.

Sôrakuen Garden (相楽園)

Sôrakuen and kawagoza bune, Kôbe

Another attraction in Kitanochô is Sôrakuen Garden, a traditional Japanese landscape garden in the center of Kôbe. 

The garden was part of the residence of Kodera Kenkichi (小寺謙吉, 1877-1949), a former mayor of Kôbe, but was opened to the public in 1941. Unfortunately, the original buildings burned down during the Second World War (except for a stable), but the residence of Mr. K. Hassam, an Anglo-Indian merchant, was moved from the residential area in Kitanochô to Sôrakuen. 

 

Sôrakuen, Kôbe, Hassan Villa

Kimi and Elchi in Sôrakuen

A highlight is an artfully painted houseboat (kawagoza bune, 川御座船), which was originally used by the feudal lord of Himeji for pleasure trips and was probably built between 1682 and 1704. The garden has an artificial central pond so that visitors can stroll around it and enjoy the garden landscape with its stone bridges. Sôrakuen is a secluded oasis in the middle of the city and is well worth a visit.

Kôbe Gion Shrine

Kôbe Gion Shrine (祇園神社) is a popular excursion destination in Kôbe. It is a rather small shrine with a very steep staircase leading to the main hall.

View from Kôbe Gion Shrine

From here, however, the view of Kôbe is  breathtaking.
 

From Sôrakuen the shrine is about 200 m uphill.

 

 

Other sightseeing spots

Kôbe Nunobiki Waterfalls (布引の滝)

 

Meotodaki, Kôbe

The Nunobiki Waterfalls are among the most beautiful sights of the area and are also close to one of the largest railway stations. From Shin-Kôbe Stn. you can walk to the Nunobiki Falls and soon be in the mountains.The charm of this walk lies on the one hand in the fact that this piece of nature with its waterfalls is still very close to the city, on the other hand in the picturesque landscape and the panoramic views that are offered during the walk. 

There are four waterfalls to choose from: Mentaki (雌滝), Tsuzumigadaki (鼓滝),Meotodaki (夫婦滝) and Ontaki (雄滝), depending on how far you want to go. Most people walk to the third waterfall, which can be reached on foot in about an hour. It's more of a walk than a mountain hike.

Kimi and Elchi at Nunobiki Waterfalls

Meotodaki is especially worth a trip for photographers, as the water shoots out of the rocks in a very picturesque way and gathers in a pond at the foot of the waterfall shimmering blue-green. The last of the waterfalls, Ontaki, is the most massive of the group, with a height of 43 meters. 

Ise Monogatari (伊勢物語, The Tales of Ise) describes a trip taken by a minor official, presumably Ariwara no Narihira (在原 業平; 825-880), and his guests to the falls where they engaged in a poetry-writing contest. A woodblock print from Episode 87 of the Tales can be found here....

Access: From Shin-Kôbe Stn.: In the basement there is a breakthrough for the river. Walk under the station and follow the pledge uphill. If you speak Japanese: Here you find a nice map of the area...

 

 

The Mountain: Rokkô san (六甲山)

If you do not feel like hiking or your time is limited you can use the Shin-Kôbe Ropeway (新神戸ロープウェー). It departs next to the Shin-Kôbe Stn. and passes the Nunobiki Waterfalls and the Nunobiki Herb Garden (布引ハーブ園) with a beautiful view of both. The highlight is the viewing platform right next to the mountain station which offers a spectacular view of Kôbe and is a popular viewing point at night. Near the terminus of the cable car is the entrance to the Nunobiki Herb Garden, one of the largest herb gardens in Japan (entrance fee). In addition to a large collection of herbs and seasonal flowers the garden houses a greenhouse with exotic fruits.

The Chinese temple Kôbe Kanteibyô (神户関帝廟) 

 

Kanteibyô, Kôbe

In 1887 the Chinese overseas community in Kôbe founded the Kôbe Kanteibyô, a Chinese temple dedicated to Guan Yu (关羽; 160-219), the famous Chinese warrior from the time of the Three Kingdoms (ca. 208-280 AD). 

 

It acts as a contact point for the Chinese population in Kôbe. The temple is built in the traditional Japanese architectural style and contains elements from China,  a very beautiful mixture of both cultures. it is very worth seeing, even if it is a bit away from Nankinmachi.

Access: From Kôbe Sannomiya Stn.: Take the local Sanyô-Suma line to Hanakuma Stn. (1 Stn.). From the train station, it is about 600 meters uphill. On the way back you can easily walk over to the Sôrakuen Garden (600 m).

 

 

 

Hyôgo Daibutsu (兵庫大仏)

Hyôgo Daibutsu is a large Buddha statue in the district of Hyôgo, originally erected in 1891 as a gift from a wealthy merchant. At that time it was the third-largest Buddha statue in Japan. It was melted down during World War II for weapons production and replaced by a new statue in 1991. The current statue has a height of 11 meters, which is still very impressive. It stands on the grounds of Nôfukuji (能福寺), a Buddhist temple (Tendai sect) which according to legend was founded in 805.

In the Hyôgo district there are also several shrines dedicated to the Seven Gods of Fortune (七福神, shichifukujin). 

Before the Second World War, Hyôgo's Shinkaichi district (新開地, "newly opened area") was a popular nightlife area. From the 1920s to the 1940s, this district was also known as the "City of Theatres". However, after such theatres lost popularity in the 1960s, the district quickly lost its status. But you'll still find some restaurants and shopping arcades here.

Access from Sannomiya Stn.: The closed stations are Hyôgo Stn., Shinkaichi Stn. and Daikai Stn. However, from all stations to Hyôgo Daibutsu, it is approx. 1 km on foot. From Harborland Park it is a 1.7 km walk.

 

 

Around Kôbe

Suma (須磨)

 

Suma beach

Suma, a suburb of Kôbe, is known for its fine white sandy beach. Especially in summer, it attracts tourists and sun lovers alike. 

Kimi and Elchi at Suma beach

This beach has served as a topos in various classic epics, such as the Genji monogatari (源氏物語, The Tale of Genji), written by the noblewoman Murasaki Shikibu (紫 式部, c. 973 or 978 – c. 1014 or 1031) in the early years of the 11th century, as well as several in Noh and Kabuki plays.

From the beach you can see the Akashi-Kaikyô bridge (明石海峡大橋), the longest suspension bridge in the world, which connects Kôbe on the Japanese mainland Honshû with Iwaya on Awaji Island. Don't miss the sunset, it's great. But Suma has more to offer than just the beach.

 

Suwa Shrine (諏訪神社)

The shrine is very close to the beach. It is a rather small shrine, but in February, during the plum flowering season, it is a hotspot for blossom viewing.

Sumadera, Pagoda

The temple Sumadera (須磨寺) is a Shingon-shû temple built in the year 886. Shingon-shû is a Buddhist sect founded by Kôbô Daishi (Kûkai, 空海 774-835). Today only a few buildings of the original temple remain. However, the temple is famous as a place where you can feel the life breath of the ancient Genpei War between the Taira and Minamoto clans (see above), which is said to have taken place in the Suma temple area. Although Kumagai tortured himself that the young commander of the Taira clan was the same age as his child, he killed him in battle. In the temple, the story can be vividly traced with the help of automatic dolls that begin to appear at the push of a button - an expression of Japanese playfulness. The head of poor Atsumori was buried on the grounds of the temple cemetery (see one of the first monuments on the right site). Near the entrance of the cemetery, songs are played automatically as you pass by, the three famous monkeys raise their hands via sensors to neither see nor hear or say anything and so on. A really technophile temple.

 

 

Suma Rikyû Park (須磨離宮公園)

 

Suma Rikyû Park, French garden

This beautiful park with botanical garden overlooks Osaka Bay. It is an ideal place to escape the city and enjoy lunch with views. As the park was designed as a villa for the then Japanese Crown Prince (Akihito) to commemorate his wedding, the park  has a very elegant atmosphere. 

Kimi and Elchi in Suma Rikyû

It has a European style garden inspired by the Palace of Versailles with water cascades and a canal lined with roses, a greenhouse, and a beautiful traditional Japanese garden. 

Suma Rikkyû, Japanese Garden

You will find a variety of flowers and trees and every season has its charm. Rest in the picnic area and enjoy the magnificent view of the sea through the forest.

Access: You can reach Suma by train from Sannomiya Stn. Get off at Suma Kaihin-Kôen Stn. (JR). The beach is about a five-minute walk to the south. Suma Temple and Suma Rikkyû Park are about 1-1.5 km uphill.